Two treatments are dominating conversations in London aesthetics clinics right now: polynucleotides and dermal fillers. Both promise to turn back the clock. Both are delivered by injection. But they work in completely different ways, and choosing the wrong one for your skin goals could mean slower results and money spent on the wrong treatment.
This guide breaks down exactly what each treatment does, who it is best for, and how to decide which one belongs in your next appointment.
What Are Dermal Fillers?
Dermal fillers are gel-like substances injected beneath the skin to restore volume, smooth lines, and reshape facial features. Most fillers are made from hyaluronic acid, a substance your body already produces naturally. One millilitre of hyaluronic acid holds up to 1,000 times its own weight in water, which explains the immediate plumping effect clients see on the treatment day.
They work immediately. Volume is added during the treatment itself, which is why results are visible the same day. Common treatment areas include:
- Lips — for definition and volume
- Cheeks — to lift and contour
- Nasolabial folds — the lines running from nose to mouth
- Under-eyes — to reduce hollowing and dark shadows
Results typically last between 9 and 18 months depending on the filler used and where it is placed. Lip fillers, for example, tend to metabolise faster than cheek fillers due to the constant movement in that area. Fillers are reversible with an enzyme called hyaluronidase, which is a safety advantage many clients value.
According to the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (BAAPS), dermal fillers remain one of the most requested non-surgical treatments in the UK, with demand increasing year on year. A 2024 survey by the Aesthetic Complications Expert (ACE) Group found that hyaluronic acid fillers account for over 80% of all injectable filler treatments performed in the UK.
What Are Polynucleotides?
Polynucleotides, often called PDRN or PN treatments, are extracted from purified salmon DNA. They are highly biocompatible with human tissue because salmon and human DNA share a significant degree of structural similarity at the molecular level. They work by stimulating your skin’s own repair and regeneration mechanisms — not by adding volume, but by improving the quality of the skin itself.
A 2022 clinical study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found that patients treated with PDRN showed a statistically significant improvement in skin elasticity, hydration, and collagen density after just two sessions. Results build over several weeks as the skin produces new collagen, improves elasticity, and retains moisture more efficiently. This makes polynucleotides a regenerative treatment rather than a volumising one.
Common uses include:
- Fine lines and crepey skin texture
- Under-eye hollowing and dark circles caused by skin thinning rather than pigmentation
- Skin laxity and loss of elasticity
- Overall skin quality improvement as a preventative measure
You will typically need two to three sessions spaced three to four weeks apart, with results lasting up to 12 months. A course of three sessions is the most common protocol at Medspa London for clients targeting under-eye skin thinning or generalised skin quality decline.
Polynucleotide treatments have grown significantly in the UK aesthetics market. Google Trends data shows that searches for “polynucleotides London” increased by over 300% between 2022 and 2024, reflecting how quickly awareness of this treatment has grown among UK clients.
The Key Differences
Dermal fillers add volume instantly. Polynucleotides rebuild skin quality gradually. These are not competing treatments — they address fundamentally different concerns.
| Dermal Fillers | Polynucleotides | |
|---|---|---|
| Mechanism | Adds volume via hyaluronic acid gel | Stimulates collagen and skin repair |
| Results | Immediate | Gradual (4 to 8 weeks) |
| Best for | Volume loss, contouring, deep folds | Skin texture, elasticity, fine lines, under-eyes |
| Duration | 9 to 18 months | Up to 12 months |
| Reversible | Yes, with hyaluronidase | No |
| Sessions needed | Usually 1 | Usually 2 to 3 |
If you have lost facial volume and want immediate structural change, fillers are the right choice. If your concern is skin texture, fine lines, dullness, or the quality of your under-eye area, polynucleotides will deliver better results.
Many clients at Medspa London benefit from both. A treatment plan might use fillers to restore volume in the cheeks while polynucleotides improve the skin quality around the eyes — two treatments working together for a result that looks natural and lasts.
Which One Is Right for You?
The honest answer is: it depends on what your skin actually needs. That is why every treatment at Medspa London starts with a consultation with Nadia, our lead nurse and medical aesthetics practitioner. She assesses your skin, listens to your goals, and recommends a treatment plan built around your face — not a generic protocol.
A key distinction worth knowing: many clients come in asking for fillers under the eyes when polynucleotides would actually produce a better result. Tear trough filler in the wrong candidate can look puffy or highlight rather than correct hollowing. Polynucleotides, by improving the skin itself, often achieve a more natural correction in clients with thin or crepe-textured under-eye skin.
If you are unsure whether polynucleotides, fillers, or a combination approach is right for you, book a consultation and get a clear answer before spending a penny on treatment.
Final Thoughts
Polynucleotides and dermal fillers are both excellent treatments in the right hands and for the right reasons. Understanding what each one does removes the guesswork and puts you in control of your results. The UK aesthetics market has matured significantly — clients today are more informed, and treatments are more targeted than ever. At Medspa London, we work with you to make sure every treatment decision is the right one for your skin.
Ready to find out which treatment your skin actually needs? Book a consultation with Nurse Nadia at Medspa London today.
